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The mysterious aura of Miss Dior

“Castor”, the brightest star in the Gemini constellation, was the code name given to the fragrance before the name Miss Dior was found. Was this a mysterious reflection of the star, found by chance, that was to decide Christian Dior’s destiny? Or rather, was he thinking of the celestial lights that inspired his first fragrance, and that he so loved to contemplate, deep in the jasmine-scented summer nights in Provence?

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The legendary and brilliant birth of Miss Dior was a clever blend of instant radiance and sustained mystery. The creation of this first Dior perfume was full of sudden dramatic twists arising from a series of certitudes and hesitations. For above all, Christian Dior wanted a fragrance that would convey his fashions and the spirit of the era. Miss Dior is the scent of a young generation rediscovering a taste for life. The scent of youth that would become the eternal signature of the founding fragrance, and dazzle alongside its spirit and desires, as it did for the “Miss Dior” ready-to-wear collection that appeared in 1967. The very first collection of the House dedicated to the young people who were daring enough to wear the pop colours of the sixties revolution, which was then in full swing.

Never before had a couturier spoken so much about his first perfume, nor surely, orchestrated so intuitively and so meticulously its stage entrance beneath the spotlights. Since its striking début, Christian Dior’s “only child” as he liked to call it, has travelled through time, continually evolving, without giving up an inch of its youthfulness and its remarkable radiance.

Loved and celebrated, Miss Dior remains the eternally “young” perfume of the House of Dior, as emphasized by Catherine Dior herself.

Today, Francis Kurkdjian is drawing inspiration from this eternal youth, and has taken up its multiple, rich accords. Here is “his” Miss Dior.

 “Miss Dior?
The young perfume
of the House, forever.”

CATHERINE DIOR

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Miss Dior
Parfum

by Francis Kurkdjian

1947-2024. Everything must change so that nothing has to change.

Christian Dior dreamed up his perfumes like he dreamed up his fashions. Miss Dior has always been a scent with its finger on the pulse of its era, embracing its spirit and capturing its desires. It is the fragrance of youth, a Miss of its era who loves her roots and knows how to move on from the past, pioneering and spontaneous like youth.
It is always evolving.

Francis Kurkdjian, in turn, has created the Parfum version of Miss Dior to be an immediate, imperative pleasure. Floral and gourmand notes soar, before settling like a morsel of fruit on the tongue, enveloped in sensual flowers, and leaving a rich memory of an amber, woody scent.

Miss Dior, is a return to a time of eternal youth.

“Miss Dior was born from evenings
in Provence iluminated by fireflies
where green jasmine harmonizes
with the melody of night and earth.”

Christian Dior

CLICK TO LISTEN TO NATALIE PORTMAN

Finding jasmine once more

Miss Dior is an icon that needs to be viewed through the full extent of its history.

Francis Kurkdjian has made it his own, giving it the accents of today’s young generation, which is never quite the same, yet not entirely different.

In this quest to reinvent the past, jasmine revealed itself to be the starting point.

“The words of Christian Dior are powerful and evocative when he talks about the inspiration of Miss Dior. They provide a wonderful summary of a story that still continues to link Dior and Perfume, as well as Dior and the South of France that he so loved. They summon the scents of nature and the beauty of that magical, gently starlit night. It is as though one can smell the scent of jasmine in the air. This vision and the happiness of the senses inspired me and guided me to revisit and rewrite the composition of this legendary  perfume, “my” Miss Dior.”

Francis Kurkdjian
Perfume Creation Director

Francis Kurkdjian knows that jasmine is gifted with a myriad of harmonious notes: it can be green at the break of day, slightly “orangey” and fruity at the moment it is picked, and often animal at nightfall. For Miss Dior, he wanted to return to its radiant and enveloping, fruity, gourmand facets.

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Into the shade of woods

Fruit is invited

This new Miss Dior perfume is, then, a composition in which floral and woody notes echo each other and play an abstract olfactory harmony in the grand tradition of chypre fragrances, of which Miss Dior was a legendary incarnation in 1947. 

“For me, a “chypre” fragrance is the very expression of French olfactory sophistication. The original Miss Dior represented this abstract structure and noble complexity. I was keen for my new interpretation to pay tribute to this unique olfactory form. My Miss Dior is a contemporary chypre. It reflects its era not only with flowers and woods, but also with the gourmand tones of wild strawberry.”

Francis Kurkdjian

Flowers dominated by the intensity of a custom crafted fruity jasmine are imbued with sparkling, elegant, sweet and juicy notes, as delectable, plump wild strawberries awaken the palate, in an appeal to an irresistible and addictive gourmandize.

These colourful accords are supported by a sensual and well-constructed woody-amber base. Anchored by a generous, clean Patchouli, a dense and binding Alaskan cedar adds a touch of darkness, while an earthy bed of moss warmly envelops the bold sweet fruits and floral beauty of the fragrance.

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The Bottle

The iconic silhouette of the new Miss Dior Parfum bottle powerfully and femininely re-affirms its original couture identity.

“Cut like a suit” with clean lines, the bottle sees its format reduced as though to better accentuate the intensity of its fragrance. It is even more sophisticated, as its base and sides give free expression to the famous houndstooth pattern engraved in the glass. For a masculine touch that contrasts with the absolute emblem of femininity, the famous “dagger”, or “swallow’s tail” bow is faithfully tied at its neck.

Still woven in the famous Faure ribbon-makers’ ateliers, the jacquard ribbon is exchanging its floral pattern for a new solid silver background with a luminescent silver lurex thread. This unprecedented look was designed in harmony with the new label, which is also silver, and whose “fabric” effect accentuates its refined couture chic style.

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Miss Dior,
stronger than ever

Once again, Miss Dior looks us straight in the eye and tirelessly asks us the question: “What would you do for love?”

Frank, proud and intense, Natalie Portman brims with joy and sensuality, in new images filmed by French director Manu Cossy. Once again, who better to embody the eternal youth of the House of Dior?

More radiant than ever, she twirls and dances on a table in front of her captivated man, wearing a dress of sensual black lace designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri for the Haute Joaillerie 2023 show. With a deep neckline and full skirt, the Dior ateliers’ creation is embroidered all over with a spectacular pattern of multicoloured beaded flowers. It is a scene that nods to “And Dior Created Woman” portrayed by the new Miss Dior who is even more in love and even more confident. 

Uplifted by her mad race across a deserted beach, she bursts out laughing. With sea-splashed skin, she looks irresistible in a red dress, like a fiery maiden.

Shot by Australian photographer Lachlan Bailey, her sensuality grows, reflected in the suggestive look in her eye, and her flowing hair. Glowing with strength and all-conquering beauty, Miss Dior is an ode to a far-reaching love, that goes even further.

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“And you, what would you do for love?”

“Creating a new Miss Dior is about wanting to convey the young generation of one’s era in a fragrance. It is also about embracing the house of Dior in its entirety.  No more, no less!

We thought that the founding story of Miss Dior was really well known, but on looking back at how the fragrance was created, we discovered new anecdotes, new accounts and new facts that were little known until now, studded throughout its creation.

In spite of everything, Miss Dior retains an element of mystery – and that is the magic of legends!

A sky filled with fireflies and scented with Provençal jasmine, combined with a name that appeared like a manifesto, “Look, here’s Miss Dior!” It also hints at the unique personality of Catherine Dior – confident and strong, strong and confident.

We know that Miss Dior was the most beautiful surprise that Christian Dior created for young people. But youth evolves… and in order for the dresses to continue “to emerge” from the house of Dior perfume bottles, the lines have to move, and reinvention is needed, to continually hold up a relevant and seductive mirror to this spirited young generation. 

Above all else, I love this capacity for renewal and astonishment. Being born under the auspices of the audacious New Look did, in some way, create an obligation for continued reinvention. And so I imagined Miss Dior as a perfume that would be a summary of its era.”

Francis Kurkdjian, Perfume Creation Director

Since jasmine was first used in perfumes in the mid-16th century in Grasse, the treatment of this flower has evolved through different processes. Enfleurage, developed in the 18th century, provided an oily pomade in which the most powerful and intense notes of jasmine could be collected and isolated. Later, the development of extraction procedures using volatile solvents and CO2, aimed to render the freshly picked flower.

Francis Kurkdjian wanted to return to the characteristic notes linked to the extraction methods used in 1947, when Miss Dior was created. This delightfully fruity and gourmand jasmine, with its notes of strawberry, peach and apricot, was what Francis Kurkdjian had been dreaming of.

Francis Kurkdjian selected an exceptional jasmine for Dior, obtained thanks to an innovative treatment, both in terms of the conditions in which the flower is harvested, and its extraction method. Picked in the month of July, at the beginning of the harvest and at the break of day, the flowers release their green and floral notes, suffused with indole. They are then processed quickly, using a secret extraction process that revives the strawberry, peach and apricot tinged fruity facets, as well as the radiance, of the jasmine extract of yesteryear.

Today, this jasmine with its candied tones is the signature of the new Miss Dior Parfum composition by Francis Kurkdjian. It is like an invitation to enjoy an irresistibly attractive immediate pleasure.